Pruning

Page Index: Reasons to Prune - Plant Structure - Tools - Methods - Timing - Plants - Pruning Toolsicon
Growing up, out, in, leggy, thin, broken, injured, dead, to encourage growth, to discourage growth, design, neglect, diseased, fruit, blooms. These are reasons for pruning. But first...

Years have passed since I spent an afternoon following a master gardener around her property to learn how to prune plants. I decided to try my new knowledge in my own garden. I chose the proper tool, as instructed, and approached a shrub. For thirty minutes I remained in front of the shrub and never made one pruning cut. Sound familiar?

This article will take you from being an insecure pruner to a happy pruner and your plants will love you for it!



Reasons to prune:
-
Plants each have their natural form. Sometimes they need help to stay healthy and keep their shape. Dead or broken branches need to be removed to allow the plant to continue lively growth.
-Pruning can also keep your plants to a desired size.
-Plants that become too dense need thinning to allow air and light to reach interior branches or the planted area.
-Encouraging root growth for continued healthy growth can be enhanced by pruning.
-Diseased or neglected plants should be pruned in an effort to rejuvenate growth.
-To increase production of vegetables, flowers, fruit and herbs, pruning is essential.
-Shape or form is decided by garden design as well as plant form. Knotgardens, espaliered plants, hedge fences are controlled by pruning.


Plant Structure: Mature plants,
although different in shape and size, are basically structurally similar.
Trunk or stem - Branches
Leader (two leaders or mains may weaken a tree)
....Side
....Secondary (growing from side branches)
....Laterals (small branches growing from leader or secondary branches.

Growth
....Primary (growth from tips of branches)
....Secondary (thicker growth)
....Crotch (where leader and side branch meet. Ideal angle is between 30 and 70 degrees.
Suckers or Watersprouts

....Grow from roots, leader or side branches.
Spurs

....Short fruit bearing laterals.
Hangers

....Drooping branches.
Whorls

....Several branches originating at the same place, should be reduced to the largest branch.



Timing: Timely pruning varies with each plant or groups of plants and the reason for pruning.


Ornamental flowering plants can be pruned throughout the growing season or in winter to remove one fourth of the oldest branches at least five years old. Remember to remove spent blooms for successive blooming.
Fruit trees should be pruned in winter, before leaves appear or after the tree is established. Research your particular fruit tree to determine if straight or bowl shape is the best shape for your tree.
Grapes need yearly pruning to contain vines, promote fruiting and good health. Best to prune around the middle of February to the main trunk. However, do not cut into the main trunk as weeping may result and your vine may die.
Shrubs
Buds form on previous year's growth. Prune after flowering.
Examples: Azalea, dogwood, forsythia, hydrangea, lilac, climbing rose, wisteria.
Flowers bloom on current season's growth. Prune in winter or early spring.
Examples: Butterfly bush, clematis, honeysuckle, bush rose, rose-of-Sharon, hydrangea.
Neglected or vigorous growing shrubs. Prune to a few inches in early spring.
Hedges Prune for shape and size when needed.
Roses
Using sharp shears cut a 1/4" slant-cut above a bud pointing to the outside of the plant.
Larger rose plants produce larger flowers.
Roses need their leaves to produce food for the plant. Do not remove too much top foliage.
Remove all dead, damaged, diseased or crossed canes.
Prune by 1/3 of length of cane.
Make clean cuts to prevent fungus and borers. Paint cuts with preparations specifically made for this purpose, usually in the form of an antiseptic paint.
Remove canes growing from the roots by digging into the soil and cutting as you would a branch off a tree. Dress wound to prevent rot. Replace soil.
Climbing roses
should be pruned after blooming or not at all.
Ground covering types need no pruning.
Bush roses should be pruned in late spring after danger of frost.
Bedding roses are pruned when spring shoots are 1/4" long.



Tools:
Hand pruning shears
for twigs and branches 1/2 inch diameter or less
Long handled lopping shears
for branches 1/2" to 1-1/2" diameter
Saws
for hard wood or branches 1-1/2" diameter or larger
curved handle
small folding blade
Hedge shears for hedge shape control with 2-3" growth


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Methods:
Make clean cuts close to leader just above a bud.
Dress fresh cutting wounds
larger than 3/8". Do not use ordinary house paint.
Clean your tool
with alcohol after cutting diseased plants.
When cutting large branches, make three cuts:


a. Cut 1/3 deep 1' from the trunk
b. Cut 1'1" from the trunk until branch falls.
c. Cut and remove stub 1' from the trunk without pulling bark away from trunk.
Dress wound.

Using your fingers, pinch small plants for shape or fruiting and to remove spent blooms.
Disbud early in season to produce larger blooms.
When pruning to promote growth, prune back after second bud or leaf from branch.



Click on Best Days to view best days of the month for pruning.
Keep tools clean and sharp for long lasting service and to prevent damage to your plants.
Dispose of diseased or injured cuttings and leaves. Do not place in the compost.
Provide good air circulation for your plants and trees.
Every five years, arbor grown grape vines need a thorough pruning to 3' above the ground, best done in the fall.

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